Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Monday, October 22, 2012

Berlin: for the people, by the people


Arriving in Berlin, I was immediately struck by the sheer livability of this city. Even as a foreigner, it is apparent to me how easy it is to function here. Everything from transportation to drinking laws is designed FOR the people, not against them. The entire city is constructed with its inhabitants in mind, and although that should be standard procedure, in most cities, this is not the case.


Take, for example, an empty lot. Rather than allowing the highest bidder to take the land and run (and build yet another empty high rise, as they would surely do in Miami), they open up the space to design students all over the city. They turn it into a contest for them to come up with the best designs and uses of space for the lot. Once they have chosen a few of the best, they will present them to the inhabitants of the neighborhood for them to decide which they prefer. The people have a say, because they live there and their happiness matters to the city of Berlin. This kind of thing would be virtually unheard of in the States, or at least in South Florida where I live. In the U.S., money matters more than people. It’s as simple as that.


My lovely host Benjamin brought me to a giant abandoned airfield just south of the city on Sunday afternoon. Although the airport itself, Flughafen Berlin-Tempelhof, is still considered “the mother of all airports” because of it's enormous size, the city shut it down one year ago. The airport no longer abides by certain national codes and the city has since replaced it with a new airport. What is to come of the space? It’s been handed to the people, of course. For now, you can roller blade down the enormous runway, picnic anywhere on the massive airfield, or fly your kite to your heart’s delight. In a few years, there will be a new library in the park, and a few additional water features for beautification. But for the most part, it will remain as it is: a huge space accessible to the Berlin public.

Yet, the city has given Berliners the chance to make their mark on the land. In one corner of the airfield, hundreds of people have built their own garden plots out of whatever used materials they can find: bath tubs, grocery carts, cardboard boxes, pallets, scrap wood, and anything else you can imagine. I even saw one garden constructed completely out of old shoes! To participate, all one has to do is sign up online. Oh, and there’s one other tenet to abide by: the gardeners must be sure to make a seated space for two people to enjoy their plot. The result is simply magical: a jerry-rigged mishmash of plants spilling out of drainage tube and cowboy boots! 

Walking around the community garden, I was in heaven. Tons of children were running around, climbing on structures set up just for that reason. Some plots had bee hives tucked away amidst raised beds full of flowering nasturtiums and overripe tomatoes having reached the end of their days. And everywhere I ventured, every corner I explored, I found people –people sitting and reading in solitude, or picnicking and laughing with friends; but everyone I came across was simply enjoying this special space.

I can’t think of a place in Miami where I could go for a similar experience. Any place with any culture or beauty, usually comes at a price. And even so, the accessible natural beauty in our city is highly limited. Unless you want to brave the parking madness on Miami Beach, or trek to Oleta River State Park 14 miles outside of the city, you’re pretty much out of luck. I think about my own neighborhood of Coconut Grove, which I love dearly. We’re probably one of the only places with a sense of community and open park space to be enjoyed by all. And yet, Kennedy Park is a joke compared to most other city parks. Today, I went for an uninterrupted 7km run through beautiful parkland in the  middle of the city. I ask you: where, oh where, would that be possible in our city? Nowhere.
























Friday, October 19, 2012

the quiet beauty of anonymity


Tomorrow, I take my leave of the Marianna and fly to Berlin. I will spend about five days there visiting a friend before hopping over to London for the remaining of my time in Europe. Tomorrow, I strap on my pack and head back out into the world. I feel as though I am emerging from a cave. A great cave, to be sure, with plenty of light (and crazy amounts of wind), but a symbolic cave nonetheless.

My life as of late has been reduced to a few simplicities: sleeping, eating, working, reading, cooking, baking, swimming, jogging and writing. It’s been exactly what I needed after four straight months of bouncing around like a maniac. I love traveling, let me make that clear, but even the most transient of vagabonds needs to be a hermit every once in a while. This has been my hermit time, and it has been lovely.

Over the past three weeks, I have barely spoken to anyone besides my father. Anyone who knows me can attest to the fact that I’m a talker, and yet lately, I have been nearly mute to the world around me. Many people I meet, at the store or around the marina, assume that because I’m American, I don’t speak any French. Usually, I would set them straight and respond in fluent French, but, I haven’t been correcting them. Rather, I have embraced my place as an outsider, a quiet observer in a “foreign” land. I have not offered much besides the niceties of “bonjour” and “bonsoir” to the people I pass, and I have been gifted an alluring blanket of simple silence – simple being the key word here. There are plenty of voices and noises around me all the time, but rarely are they directed at me. I am left to my own devices, to answer to almost no one - and that is sweeter than you can imagine.

I hadn’t really realized that I could enjoy this level of communication disconnect before. I have always been one to make a big effort to associate with the people around me, especially when traveling. I have been greatly rewarded with eye-opening conversations, incredible connections, and beautiful relationships with strangers who have turned into family. I encourage all who travel to make this effort; you won’t be disappointed. But just as engaging with the world and people around you is a rewarding and important part of traveling, so is sitting and digesting all that you have consumed while traveling. Connecting can become tiresome after a while; it demands a lot of energy from a person. You’re constantly putting yourself out there, trying to learn as much as you can, experience everything to the maximum, and frankly, it’s exhausting.

This existence of quiet anonymity has given me the time and space to communicate in another way, through my writing, and for that I am full of thanks. My only hope is that I can carry with me this peace and quiet into all aspects of my life, especially when I am back at home creating my routine. It is not something that just happens naturally, especially in a big city like Miami; these are things that I have to etch into my daily life, and not just find the time but make the time to do these things that bring me joy – writing, baking, cooking, swimming, running, and the like. It’s hard when you’re trying to pay bills, have a social life, spend time with family, and all that jazz- but it is possible.
Some things must fall away, of course, but this is the essence of prioritizing, and action expresses priority. I hope I can organize my priorities in such a way that I carry the simplicity of the lifestyle I have been living aboard the Marianna into the complicated and crazy life I will inevitably be thrown back into when I return to Miami at the end of the month. I set this now as my goal for the future, and I intend to stick by it.